November 15 - After a two hour approach we tackled Mt. Stanley headwall via the Sinus Gully - a mid season III or IV climb which was climbing hard with the sketchy early season ice. We bivied in comfort at the Chateau Lake Louise to avoid a 4:00am start from Calgary on the 16th.
November 16 - Bow Falls - we decided to go further north to find better ice. After a two hour approach we were met with an impressive wall of frozen water except in its early season form it wasn’t much more than a wall of partially frozen water. I’m guessing we may have been this year’s first climbers for this route. Much like climbing a slurpee this ice was completely unnerving and couldn’t handle much yarding on the ice tools. Due to the sketchy ice which wouldn’t properly support ice screws we were only able to tackle a challenging mixed rock/ice route up the side of the falls while still being showered with water spurting through the main falls. This route left us an impossible short pitch to the summit, impossible unless you have no fear of falling. But we didn’t top out but got plenty wet from the spray of the falls on this -9C day.